Kashida embroidery, using muga and
tasar yarn on cotton and silk, was the most popular form of
embroidery. Kasida embroidery is believed to have come from Basra in the
9th century. Karchob embroidery, for which Dhaka was famous,
consists of gold and silver work done on tightly stretched cloth.
Currently, this is called karchupi, adi and iri.
Depending on what yarn was used, the embroidery was given
different names. There were a number of forms of karchob embroidery
including zardozi, kalabatan or golabatan,
karchika, and kamdani. Gold, silver and silk work on muslin
and on shawls was called zardozi. Embroidery using zari, fine gold
or silver threads, was known as kalabatan or golabatan. Gold or silver
work on cotton muslin was known as kamdani. Relatively fine work of gold
or silver zari was called karchika. White work on white muslin and
nainsook, light cotton fabric, was called chikan,
chikankari and chikandaji. Embroidery using coloured silk on
cotton cloth was called fulkuri or fulbuti.
In Bangladesh, many of these forms of embroidery have
been revived. Non-Bengali artisans of Mohammadpur and Mirpur still do
karchob. Chikan embroidery on kurtas and kameezes is done in
places like Mirpur, Kachukhet, Mohammadpur and Dayaganj. In addition to
these traditional forms of embroidery, western embroidery stitches such as
the satin stitch, the lazy-daisy, and the chain stitch are also used to
embroider pillow covers, bedspreads, tablecloths, napkins, and kameezes,
etc. Satin stitch embroidery is commonly used for badges. [Momen
Chowdhury]
Source:
Asiatic Society of Bangladesh